There’s
nothing like waking up to the sunlight. With the foggy weather of Lima, it had been months, but this morning we
woke in a humble little hotel in Huancayo called “Grandma’s House.” It was cheap, clean, and cheap, my three
requisites.
Lucho, our
guide, met us out front, and within minutes of the ride to our first stop, we
could tell that Huancayo was nothing like our corner of Lima. It felt more rural, more…normal. The tiny museum was in the corner of a tiny
suburb, and a group of kids, well dressed from mass, were gathered in the town
square, which might have been a hundred feet across. We were quickly the main attraction.
As we were
greeted with staccato choruses of “good morning,” Lucho explained that they
learned some basic English in school, but didn’t understand much. Once they realized that we spoke Spanish, they
were a bit quieter, but a few talked with us like kids do.
After a
five-minute tour of the museum, which was just one room, we walked down some
stone steps to a set of ruins about the size of a basketball court. A few hundred years ago, the Catholics had
covered the ruins with dirt, in an effort to bury the religious beliefs of
several millennia. Surprise, the
Peruvians have shovels.
Walls several
feet thick surrounded a central courtyard filled with thick green clover and
two ancient, twisted trees. Shallow pits
walled with stone graced the center courtyard, where we saw three men quietly
meditating near one of them. An older
one was talking quietly to the other two, who were about our age. We stepped quietly passed them, not seeking to
disturb, and kept to other parts of the sacred place.
Our respectful
gesture may have impressed the old man, because he spoke to Lucho, and we were
invited to sit next to them in the circle under one of the twisted 500-year old
trees. In the center, a small bundle of
candles burned with black smoke, and a cloth with various objects sat near. The objects, as Lucho explained, represented
various aspects of life, like the sea, or Mother Earth. There was also a small bowl of coca leaves and
cheap cigarettes near the candles.
The old chief offered
each of us a handful of coca leaves from a small bag, we were to sort them and
pick out the best three (the number three representing the heaven, the earth,
and the underworld) and place those back into the bowl, a gesture of
recognizing the gods for what we had been given.
The rest of
the leaves we quietly chewed while we made small talk with the old man. The old
man then offered a pinch of ashes to go along with the coca – apparently the
lye in the ash serves to “unlock” the spiritual properties of the leaf. I’m pretty sure it’s just chemistry. I did as our guide did, wetting the leaf in
my mouth and blotting in onto the ash, then placing it in my cheek.
I don’t
remember anything after that.
I’m
kidding. A person would need several
pounds of coca leaves to feel any significant effect, and even then, the leaves
are unprocessed, not like the concentrated, alkaline substance produced by the
ton a few dozen miles further into the jungle.
The raw leaves are either chewed or brewed into a tea, which is
stimulating, but not as much as caffeine.
It also fixes nausea and a host of other things.
I didn’t see
any little pink elephants (elephants are in Africa
anyway) but my mouth got a little tingly, and the altitude headache I had been
coping with most of the morning disappeared.
Any euphoria I
felt was caused by a quiet minute to sit down, without the noise of the city,
and just talk quietly with people with whom we shared little in common, other
than simply being human. We all felt incredibly lucky that they had shared this intimate and important part of their lives with us.
After a few
minutes we stood up, thanked them, and moved quietly elsewhere. We spent a few minutes hunting four-leaf
clovers in the old courtyard, which Lucho said were lucky even in the pre-Inca
culture.
“The odds of a
four-leaf clover are about one in ten-thousand, and a five-leaf is a
one-in-a-million chance, and although sometimes certain patches have lots of
them, that’s not normal.”
He looked at
me skeptically, like he didn’t trust my facts. It is true that 72% of all statistics are made
up on the spot.
I told him
about hunting them with my Grandparents when I was a kid, not being any good at
it, and that I had found a 5-leaf only once in my life.
Five seconds
later I plucked a five leaf, and held it out to him.
“Twice.”
“Remember
these things, children do. Yours will
remember this, too.”
Lucho may be a
long-haired hippie looking, Yoda-talking, Inca tour-guide dude, but he’s a
pretty smart guy.
Because we were so
thrilled with his service, I am going to insert a shameless plug here for our
guide, IncasdelPeru, who set the whole thing up for us. They offer train packages, but will tailor a
custom tour for your family, even hikes through the jungle, depending on what you would like to see in
or around Huancayo. Ask for Lucho.
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