The
condor was a holy symbol of eternal life to the Incas. Since the one I had seen earlier today tried to snuff mine out, our guide, Angel, was giving us another chance to feel the
way a bird does. We were back in the
minivan, winding and turning over some pretty exciting roadways, overlooking
the Sacred Valley
and the city of Pisac.
The Peruvian highway department is a lot
more relaxed about where they put guard rails.
The town felt like a lot of other places we have been,
but it didn’t take too long to get through it. On the opposite hillside lay the main
attraction of Pisac – ancient terraces and structures that had stood for half a
millennium.
Angel explained to us that many crops need to be grown at
specific altitudes, but since it isn’t possible to plant on a hillside, the
Incas, or perhaps the society that existed before them, fashioned the sides of
the giant mountains into terraces, creating huge blocks of arable land,
irrigated by water that previously just ran down the mountainside into the
river.
We sparked the van, and in the lot was the usual gaggle
of tourist hunters. These were smarter –
they knew I wouldn’t be fooled with the cute little lamb. I smelled something cooking. It was probably dirt, but it smelled good.
As we hiked along the hillside, we saw a young woman with
flowers in her hat, which Angel told us meant she was looking for a husband. She answered “25” when asked her age. She might have been five feet tall, and was
built using right angles. She was pretty
in a different way – she looked like she had already led a hard life, but her
face looked like she had never cried or even frowned. She was at peace. If this girl could cook, she shouldn’t have any
trouble finding a man.
We went on around the hills, past centuries-old walls,
and through narrow crevices carved into the rock. At the edge of each mountain, a small set of
buildings had been assembled, some with mud as mortar, but many using the same
perfect construction techniques we had seen in Cuzco.
To communicate along great distances quickly, the Incas
would signal a lookout at each post, who would in return pass the signal to the
next corner of the mountain. It wasn’t
exactly 4G, but an Inca-Tweet could probably go ten miles in a few minutes.
It’s a shame they couldn’t order me some Chinese food. By the time we got back around to the parking
lot two hours later, I couldn’t resist – I spent s/3, a little more than $1, for a boiled
Choclo. It’s the Southern version (That’s
Southern WORLD, not Southern U.S.) of corn on
the cob, a sweeter version of hominy corn. It ain't bad when you're hungry. I could have eaten an alpaca, but I had already done that yesterday.
I had straggled behind and bought it quietly, but as I tried to be discreet about chowing down, Angel ratted
me out.
“That is called “Choh-Kloh,” he said, forgetting that we
weren’t complete strangers to his country.
“Choclo!” Middle
and Youngest said in unison. Now I was
going to have to share, as each demanded a portion.
We made it down the mountain and into the market. This one was quite a bit more touristy than we
are accustomed. Every vendor wanted to
stop us and show us what they had to offer.
Angel told us that the locals spend six months growing food and the
other six making handcrafted stuff for the tourist trade. I respect that, not a thing we saw was made in
China.
But these guys missed their calling –
they should have opened an international school for insurance salesmen and
Jehovah’s witnesses, because they have mastered the high-pressure sales
routine.
(Peru has thousands of potato varieties, about a dozen are pictured here.)
In the food section of the market, we were back in our
element, so I was willing to let myself be pressured into buying an EmpaƱada, one of the
small Peruvian turnovers made with Chunkah meat. For the uninitiated, that’s some Chunkah meat
that I don’t know what it is. It’s
served all over the country, and it’s pretty good.
Follow our continuing adventures in the Sacred Valley by clicking here.
Follow our continuing adventures in the Sacred Valley by clicking here.