The sun was up, but still
below the trees as the short, squarely built man cut the throttle on the small
boat. He bore no expression, his
features looked much like the old totems that pre-date the Incas by a century
or two.
The morning light revealed
movement on the shore, as small brown humanoids gathered, adding to their
numbers two or three at a time. Some of
the group stood still and watched us, while others were rapidly in motion,
darting from side to side. The tiny
craft slid up onto the bank with the whoosh of aluminum on soft mud, and we
stepped out.
I had never seen so many
monkeys outside of legislative session. Monkey Island,
a primate refuge on the Amazon River near Iquitos,
Peru, contains
about 75 monkeys of various species, roaming freely, and ready for interaction
with humans.
I soon met Felipe, a common
wooly monkey, after he held out his hand to me as if to shake it. Once he had my hand, he immediately vaulted up
my body and landed on my shoulders. I
then began exhibiting symptoms of an interesting speech defect that only occurs
when one tries to hold a monkey: I began
repeating the words, “Monkey, stop it, monkey, no, monkey, quit” in some
variation over and over. Since Felipe
effectively had four hands and could hang on with his tail, within the first
five seconds he had grabbed by sunglasses, my hat, untied one of my shoes, and
explored every one of my pockets. I
managed to keep everything, but had I sneezed at the wrong moment, Felipe might
have robbed me blind. Once Felipe
decided I didn’t have anything he wanted, he settled down and let me hold him
like a child, even though he tried to bite me a couple more times when I
stopped paying him constant attention.
As we walked along though
the gaggle of hilarity, I got the bright idea that I could hold a second
monkey, a spider, in my other arm. Apparently
this violates some law of quantum monkey physics - two monkeys cannot occupy
the same space at the same time. The two
decided to engage in a full-blown monkey fight, without actually dismounting
the human (me). A third monkey cheered
this on, and he looked a lot like Don King.
My youngest daughter, 11,
was having fun of her own. Too small to
hold a monkey, she was being led around after a spider monkey discovered it
could use its tail to hold on to her arm.
After a brief tour and some
free time in the exercise yard, we were brought inside a small structure, where
a tiny, diapered baby monkey was passed around and snuggled.
While I could have stayed
here for a week, it was soon time to stop monkeying around and move back to the
boat. I looked around for Felipe, but he
had already moved on, so we headed out to the next chapter of our Amazon
Adventure.
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