Random writings from a former soldier and healer, now serving as a diplomat. Life may be a lot of things, but it's at least interesting. These are our stories.
Friday, June 29, 2012
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Gardening in Peru
My loyal readers have heard me speak of my garden, and those
who follow me on Facebook have seen some of the photos. I love my garden, and perhaps that is a
product of living in South America, or perhaps
it is a product of age.
Peru
has a growing season which is continuous, and while different plants do well at
different times of the year, it is difficult to be a bad gardener here, which
may explain why I enjoy it so much.
More so, perhaps, the thing that I enjoy most is the
tendency of a garden to present its owner with a sudden reward. It’s not like fruit, it comes as a surprise
when I wake up to find something beautiful, like the seven-inch blooms on my
orange hibiscus pictured here.
There is nothing like watching a child with a new hobby, and
Youngest has taken to the garden. Her
various projects are pictured below – a giant sunflower, which unfortunately
met its demise shortly after her attempt to repot it. Next to it in the pot is the top of a
pineapple that we bought at the market – if planted and kept watered heavily,
the pineapple top will eventually grow, although it appears to stay dormant for
a long time. The one pictured is two
months old, but the one right behind it was planted just more than one year
ago.
Of course the cast-iron sink in the back is full of ferns,
which started out as one half of a dying one, rootbound and underwatered. Once I separated it out and packed dirt around
the individual parts, it has just exploded.
As we reach the halfway point of our time here in Peru, I finally
have my yard looking the way it should. You
can see more garden photos here.
For an even more exciting plant story, check out my friend’s
Night Blooming Cereus, a special flower that blooms for only a single night,
and wilts by morning.
Plant something. Watch it grow. Water it, prune it. It's good for the spirit.
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Funny T-shirts of the Redneck Diplomat
I was faced with a problem
that seems to confront most women every couple of weeks, but only bothers most
men about once every five to ten years.
I needed to buy clothes.
Men buy clothing using a
much different formula than women use. I
refer to this as the replacement method.
One of my pairs of blue jeans is worn out, so I need another pair of
jeans. I will then discard one set of
jeans, and rotate the next best one out of the “this is my nice pair of jeans”
position, and then MAYBE I will discard the worst of the bunch.
The replacement method is
also used for dress shirts, shoes, and basically anything that men wear. Today I was going to use it to replace a very
special section of my wardrobe, something that allows me to express myself in a
way that only clothing can.
I speak, of course, of
T-shirts – the kind that say something…witty.
It’s a delicate balance between childish and trashy, but they have to
fit the mood just right.
I was trading in Sponge Bob,
a tourist shirt from Cape Cod, and a Father’s
Day present from 2002 that said “Control Freak.” Sponge Bob just seemed a little too much
given that I no longer have small children, I’ve never been to Cape Cod, and
there is no defense for the third, but they were full of holes, stains, and
thin spots. It was time to express
myself anew, something more appropriate to my age and station.
Of course, I journeyed to that
great Mecca
where people go to find the perfect fashion expressions of personality. I speak, of course, of Wal-Mart. I immediately found something suitable.
After picking up a red shirt
with a giant “Angry Birds” logo, I decided it was time to stop playing around
and get serious, so I paid up, and headed to the old standby store, the place
that used to make us point and giggle as kids, since I’m not even sure we were
allowed in until we were old enough to vote. Thank goodness, 30 years later,
the store is still there – Spencer’s.
As I sorted through shirts
looking for those not displaying obscenities or body parts, I was lucky enough
to find one, just one, of the must haves. I had never seen anything like it, printed on
both sides of the fabric.
So you see, friends, I
couldn’t NOT buy this. I find it also
hilarious to show it off to my daughters’ friends. I will in fact display its special feature to
anyone who reads it, and doesn’t quite get it.
Here’s to ten more years.
An Extra Two Clams
Let me start this entry out
with a geography lesson. The Ozarks,
where we grew up, is absolutely nowhere near the ocean. I didn’t see the ocean for the first time
until I was 24 years old, and it didn’t count because I was at the back of a
small bay. It was a couple of years
later before I looked out to the horizon and saw nothing but water.
My wife had tasked me with
going to the market to buy clams. Since Lima is right next to the
Pacific, the seafood at the markets is fresh, and often still live.
Last week, I found clams
already shucked and ready, and bought 350g, or about ¾ pound, for the
equivalent of $8. I have no idea if that
is a good price or not, but the chowder was phenomenal.
Today, the market was
different. We have already established
that I know nothing about clams, but those who know me will say I will never
miss a chance at a bargain. Clams still
in the shell seemed to be cheaper than those already shucked, so I bought 20 of
the little guys, still live. It doesn’t
get any fresher than that, I thought, and I spent the same $8 on a much larger
bag of clams. I would save a dollar or
two by shucking them myself.
I chose my tool for the
task, a large metal spoon, and thought, how hard could this be, just get them
out of the shell, right?
It turns out that clams don’t
want to be shucked. It was unanimous. Redneck determination being what it is, I did
eventually get them all out of their shells and onto a cutting board, but not
without cost. I had cut myself slightly a
couple of times, on pieces of broken shell.
If clams had teeth, I would
have been bitten four times. These guys
did NOT want to be turned into chowder.
Then of course, came the
task of separating the actual clam meat from the rest of the alien being. Having zero knowledge of mollusk anatomy, I
still managed to remove anything that looked like clam-poop, and called it good.
Almost an hour after the ordeal began, I
placed my cleaned-up clams on my wife’s small kitchen scale.
400g.
By shucking my own, I had
scored two extra clams. Some people
would say it isn’t worth the time and effort involved, and they might be right.
But I still got two clams
for free.
Fishing for Piranha - Amazon Adventures
I’ve never been very excited
about the sport of fishing, but I must admit that a new element of excitement
is added when the fish have giant teeth and could eat a cow down to the bone in
a couple of minutes.
Roger probably wasn’t our
guide’s real name. It was probably
Boola-boola or something similar, since he had grown up in one of the local
villages on the Amazon River. Roger spoke fluent English, German, Spanish,
and Qechua, all self-taught, so he is a pretty smart guy.
Except perhaps, for leading
a family of Gringos into the still, dark water to fish for piranhas. We had tried a couple of spots before we found
a good one.
Our boat guy, Joe, cut the engine
and coasted us into a quiet cove, where the water was black and silent, ominous even. I was sure it led straight down to hell where
the fish came from. He chopped up a
chunk of old beef roast with a screwdriver, and insisted on baiting our hooks for us. Seriously, Inca Joe, we’re hillbillies, my
daughters need to bait their own hooks.
While normal fishing
involves quiet and patience, seeking the devil fish requires none of this. Plop the hook loaded with a piece of bloody
meat into the water, then splash the water with the end of your pole, so the devil-fish think something tasty fell into the water, and wait
for the fun to begin.
One can watch the meat sink
slowly against the blackness, but after a couple of feet, it will pitch
violently six or seven times and disappear. The trick is, the fisherman needs to set the
hook within this time frame. There is no
sitting and waiting, there is casting and the baiting of hooks.
We hadn’t had much luck with
the catching part, although we were amused when a native in a dugout canoe
rowed by us. Inca Joe traded some of our
bait for the temporary use of a knife to cut the rest. The native handed back about half of what Joe
offered, as it was more than he needed. He was going to boil the Gringos in a big
black pot tonight anyway.
Just when we started to run
low on bait, Roger caught a couple, and both my daughters caught one on
their last piece of bait. We ended up with six, which cost us two pounds of beef - not too efficient. I was wishing
I could wash the beefy blood from my hands from all the hook baiting, and started to rinse my hands in the river – but I resisted the urge - it just seemed like a bad idea.
Piranhas are not just full
of teeth, but they are angry. They will
chomp over and over as they suffocate in the air, trying one last time to take
a bite out of one of us. I learned that
their gums secrete an anticoagulant causing their victims to bleed more and
attract more guests to the piranha party.
We returned to the lodge,
where I could finally wash my hands in a sink (I did check it first), and we
waited for Inca Joe and Roger to fry up the day’s catch.
These little guys are not
too big, and there isn’t much meat, but what there is tastes sweet and isn’t
fishy tasting. We ate them with a side
of fried yucca and rice, but it was more the idea of it than anything.
I am eating you, Mr. Piranha. I am the top of the food chain.
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Monkey Island Tour offers Adventure on the Amazon River
The sun was up, but still
below the trees as the short, squarely built man cut the throttle on the small
boat. He bore no expression, his
features looked much like the old totems that pre-date the Incas by a century
or two.
The morning light revealed
movement on the shore, as small brown humanoids gathered, adding to their
numbers two or three at a time. Some of
the group stood still and watched us, while others were rapidly in motion,
darting from side to side. The tiny
craft slid up onto the bank with the whoosh of aluminum on soft mud, and we
stepped out.
I had never seen so many
monkeys outside of legislative session. Monkey Island,
a primate refuge on the Amazon River near Iquitos,
Peru, contains
about 75 monkeys of various species, roaming freely, and ready for interaction
with humans.
I soon met Felipe, a common
wooly monkey, after he held out his hand to me as if to shake it. Once he had my hand, he immediately vaulted up
my body and landed on my shoulders. I
then began exhibiting symptoms of an interesting speech defect that only occurs
when one tries to hold a monkey: I began
repeating the words, “Monkey, stop it, monkey, no, monkey, quit” in some
variation over and over. Since Felipe
effectively had four hands and could hang on with his tail, within the first
five seconds he had grabbed by sunglasses, my hat, untied one of my shoes, and
explored every one of my pockets. I
managed to keep everything, but had I sneezed at the wrong moment, Felipe might
have robbed me blind. Once Felipe
decided I didn’t have anything he wanted, he settled down and let me hold him
like a child, even though he tried to bite me a couple more times when I
stopped paying him constant attention.
As we walked along though
the gaggle of hilarity, I got the bright idea that I could hold a second
monkey, a spider, in my other arm. Apparently
this violates some law of quantum monkey physics - two monkeys cannot occupy
the same space at the same time. The two
decided to engage in a full-blown monkey fight, without actually dismounting
the human (me). A third monkey cheered
this on, and he looked a lot like Don King.
My youngest daughter, 11,
was having fun of her own. Too small to
hold a monkey, she was being led around after a spider monkey discovered it
could use its tail to hold on to her arm.
After a brief tour and some
free time in the exercise yard, we were brought inside a small structure, where
a tiny, diapered baby monkey was passed around and snuggled.
While I could have stayed
here for a week, it was soon time to stop monkeying around and move back to the
boat. I looked around for Felipe, but he
had already moved on, so we headed out to the next chapter of our Amazon
Adventure.
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Mexican Mole Recipe Confuses Redneck Diplomat
On occasion, I must readily
admit to my own ignorance. The world is
a big place, and it’s impossible to know everything. I’m not at all embarrassed about this, because
everyone hears this stuff the first time. I am fairly surprised that it stung me at this
particular moment, though.
The invitation came from one
of my colleagues, whose boyfriend, Jorge, is from Mexico. Since he is here in Peru at the
moment, she extended an invitation to a small dinner party. I don’t remember the exact words, but this was
the phrase that got my attention:
…You are cordially invited to a dinner of Mexican Mole…
And of course an image went
straight to my head and refused to leave.
So…I guess the Mexicans eat
it, and according to the invitation, it’s kind of a big deal, with regional
recipes and everything.
I’ve eaten possum, squirrel,
raccoon, and guinea pig, so I suppose if there is a place that wants to eat
mole then that’s okay, I would be willing to try it if it was offered.
I kept wondering, though,
how would you cook it? Would it be
fried, roasted, barbecued on a stick, or what?
I decided to Google it.
Okay, so there it is. Mole (pronounced mo-lay) has nothing to do
with small blind rodents –
(Mexican Spanish, from Nahuatl mōlli,
"sauce") is the generic name for a number of sauces used in Mexican
cuisine, as well as for dishes based on these sauces. (Wikipedia)
Photo
by Alejandro Linares Garcia
So to make a long story
short, we went to dinner, and we ate this stuff over chicken enchiladas, with
cheese and raw onions on top. It’s
spicy, but also has a chocolate flavor to it.
Not something I would eat every day, but I’m glad I tried it.
I am also glad that no
rodents were harmed in the making of this sauce. Now, my redneck friends - you know, too.
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