Our tiny craft docked on a
Sunday afternoon.
My adventures had brought me
over 2500 miles northward, to the Deep South. Actually, I’m a few hundred miles south of
that still yet, in Miami.
One of the things I used to find most
annoying – the fact that everyone here speaks Spanish – is now strangely
comforting. From my 17th floor
corner room at the Hilton Downtown, I see city lights all the way to the
horizon. In that way, it is very much
like Lima.
What strikes me as different
is the smell of the United
States. All countries smell different, but I had
always thought that the American odor was simply the lack of other olfactory
input. Iraq always smelled like
misdirected sewage and smoldering plastic. Kuwait left my nostrils with a hot
sandy smell mixed with diesel fumes, with only hints of misdirected sewage and
burning plastic.
Germany, however, had been pleasantly different. During my time there, I stayed on the third
floor of a tiny hilltop inn, which enjoyed proximity to a large brewery in the
valley. I woke each morning to drifting
hops and barley grains toasted a bit too long.
Miami was definitely none of the above. The air was a little saline, and the air was
light but not quite fresh, probably due to the combustion of all that $4 gasoline. Not an
artificial odor, but the hint of something not quite real. Like the smell of morning dew as it rests on sweat-covered Astroturf.
I am compelled to wear shoes
on this trip, since it’s work related, but I am steadfast in my belief that
shoes are evil, more evil than Congress and Wall Street combined. Bad analogy, since that may have already
happened.
In one of the more effective
uses of taxpayer dollars, officials from all over the western hemisphere were
brought together here to discuss and share information about international
adoptions. A well-meaning but fairly
complex set of laws governs this practice, and it must merge with equally
complex yet not always as well-meaning sets of laws from other countries. This is further complicated by a treaty, with
which levels of compliance vary.
For travelers, it seems like
there are things to do here, but I didn’t have a chance to do any of them. I will, however, share some insight gained my
simply existing here for 5 days:
The Hilton Miami Downtown is
an overpriced road motel with terrible service and less than spotless rooms. While I would love to write awful things
about my experience there, I can’t do so without turning green and tearing my
shirt off. I stayed in the JW Marriott on my previous trip, and there is no comparison.
I did, however, get a chance
to enjoy a splinter of Miami’s
restaurant scene. The quality of
middle-class restaurants there was a surprisingly bright point of light in the
trip. I will share the specifics later,
when I review such places as The Knife, City Hall, and Largo’s,
all located in the heart of downtown Miami.
Happiness assaulted me as I
took in my first deep breath of Lima’s
air. It’s drier, heavier, and a little
earthy, but without the artificial quality. It smells like…Peru.
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